McMenamins Edgefield: Why This Quirky Oregon Hotel Is One of My Favorite Places

There are hotels I like, hotels I recommend, and then there are places that feel a little bit like home. McMenamins Edgefield in Troutdale, Oregon, is firmly in that third category for me. I used to live less than 15 minutes away, and I have been going to Edgefield since 2005, long before it became the destination it is today.

I have stayed here with girlfriends, stayed here with my kids, eaten countless meals, wandered the grounds, listened to music, and spent what may be an unreasonable amount of time enjoying the soaking pool. I love pretty much everything about Edgefield, and if you are looking for a place near Portland where you can check in and basically not have to leave, this is one I think you should know about.

And before anyone assumes this is just another fancy Oregon hotel review: it isn’t a traditional hotel. McMenamins Edgefield is a 74-acre property in Troutdale that combines a historic hotel with restaurants, bars, a brewery, winery, distillery, spa, soaking pool, gardens, golf, live music, a movie theater, art, and plenty of places to wander.

In other words, Edgefield is the kind of place where you can arrive with a plan and then completely abandon it because you found something else interesting.

Where Is McMenamins Edgefield?

McMenamins Edgefield is located at 2126 SW Halsey Street in Troutdale, Oregon, just east of Portland. The property is approximately a 20- to 25-minute drive from downtown Portland and about 15 minutes from Portland International Airport, making it particularly convenient if you are flying into Portland.

That location is one of the reasons I think Edgefield makes such a good Oregon getaway. You get easy access to Portland, but once you are wandering around the Edgefield property, it doesn’t really feel like you are in a city at all.

It is also a great jumping-off point for exploring the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood. If you have read my other Oregon articles, you know I have a serious soft spot for this part of the state, and Edgefield puts you right in the middle of a lot of the places I love visiting.

Why McMenamins Edgefield Is So Special

The easiest way to explain Edgefield is that it has personality.

A lot of hotels are trying very hard to look like hotels. Edgefield isn’t interested in that nonsense. The property occupies a former Multnomah County Poor Farm, with the main lodge constructed in 1911, and McMenamins has spent decades transforming the historic property into the sprawling destination it is today.

There are historic buildings, artwork everywhere, gardens, little bars and restaurants, unexpected rooms and spaces, and all sorts of details that make wandering around part of the experience.

McMenamins describes Edgefield as a destination resort, and that really is the best way to think about it. You aren’t simply booking a room; you are booking a place where you can spend an entire day without running out of things to do.

The Edgefield Soaking Pool Is My Favorite Part

Let’s just get this out of the way: I love the Edgefield soaking pool.

Actually, “love” feels insufficient. The soaking pool is the literal best, and it is one of the main reasons I think staying at Edgefield is worth it.

The outdoor pool is a heated saltwater soaking pool located behind Ruby’s Spa. The water is maintained at approximately 102 degrees, and hotel guests have access during the pool’s open hours. The pool is currently open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., although there are specific rules and capacity limits.

One thing I especially appreciate is that the soaking pool isn’t just a giant swimming pool with a couple of hot jets thrown in. It feels tucked into the property, surrounded by trees and landscaping, and it is designed for actually relaxing.

There is also a small Tea House Bar that opens onto the soaking pool patio during seasonal hours, so you can grab a drink and take it outside. Because apparently Oregon decided we needed a way to make soaking in a 102-degree pool even better.

Can Kids Use the Edgefield Soaking Pool?

Yes. This is important if you are considering Edgefield for a family getaway.

Children under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian, and bathing suits are required. The pool is intended to be a quiet place, so jumping and excessive noise aren’t allowed.

The pool also becomes 21 and over from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m., which makes the evening hours particularly appealing for an adults-only or girlfriend getaway.

That gives Edgefield a nice balance: you can absolutely bring your kids, but you can also plan an adults-only stay and have some grown-up time.

And yes, I have done both.

Staying at McMenamins Edgefield

The Edgefield rooms are part of the experience, but you need to know what you are booking because this isn’t a cookie-cutter hotel.

The guestrooms have vintage furnishings and artwork tied to the property’s history. Depending on the room, you may have an ensuite bathroom or a private bathroom located down the hall. Some rooms also have original porcelain sinks and cotton bathrobes.

There are no televisions or telephones in the guestrooms, which is very much intentional. Wi-Fi is available in areas including the restaurants and Library, but Edgefield isn’t really trying to compete with your living room television.

That is either going to sound wonderful to you or make you immediately think, “Absolutely not.” Both reactions are valid.

I actually think the lack of TVs works beautifully here because there is so much to do outside your room. You aren’t stuck trying to entertain yourself in a generic hotel room when you can wander the grounds, grab a drink, play games, see a show, explore the gardens, or soak in the pool.

Edgefield also has family rooms, king rooms, queen and double-queen rooms, twin rooms, and hostel accommodations, giving travelers quite a few different lodging options.

One practical thing to know: the guestrooms do not have air conditioning, although McMenamins notes that air conditioning is available in some public areas of the property. Rooms have windows and fans for ventilation.

That is something I would absolutely consider when deciding when to visit, particularly if you are someone who sleeps hot.

There Is Enough to Do Here for an Entire Weekend

One of the biggest reasons I keep coming back to Edgefield is that you don’t need to constantly get in the car.

The 74-acre property includes a winery, distillery, brewery, spa, restaurants, bars, soaking pool, golf courses, gardens, movie theater, event spaces and live music.

There are also five pool tables, a snooker table, darts, pinball, shuffleboard and other games at Lucky Staehly’s Pool Hall.

For me, this is where Edgefield really shines as a girlfriend getaway. You can check in, wander around, have dinner, listen to music, soak, have another drink, and never once have to debate who is driving.

That is a vacation skill I highly recommend developing.

Eat and Drink Your Way Around Edgefield

There are multiple places to eat and drink throughout the property, including the Black Rabbit Restaurant & Bar, Power Station Pub, Distillery Bar, Jerry’s Ice House, Little Red Shed, Loading Dock Grill, Tea House, and Winery Tasting Room.

The Power Station is particularly fun for families because it combines a pub with a movie theater and serves a family-friendly crowd. The building itself dates back to Edgefield’s days as the county poor farm, when it functioned as the property’s power station, laundry, and power facilities. No matter what you order be sure to get the cajun tots!

The brewery is right across the courtyard, and McMenamins says beer is brewed just steps from the Power Station. During summer, the Loading Dock Grill expands the dining options outdoors near the brewery. I recommend the Rudy beer; it’s a raspberry beer.

The winery has been part of Edgefield since 1990 and produces wines and ciders, including Oregon Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, along with other Northwest wines.

If you are doing an adults-only trip, there are plenty of ways to make the food and drink portion of your stay a major part of the experience.

Don’t Skip the Gardens

One of my favorite things about Edgefield is that you don’t have to schedule every minute.

The gardens cover a huge portion of the property and include an herb garden, Fir Grove, Red Shed Pond, Wedding Meadow, vegetable gardens, an orchard and vineyards. Some of the produce grown on the property is used by the Black Rabbit Restaurant.

This is one of those places where I recommend simply wandering.

You will find artwork and interesting little details throughout the property, and McMenamins has also incorporated working artists into Edgefield. Glassblowing and pottery are part of the experience, and the property has an extensive collection of artwork.

There are also scheduled history, art, garden and makers tours at various times. Some tours are family-friendly while others are specifically 21 and over, so check the current schedule when planning your stay.

McMenamins Edgefield for Families

I have stayed at Edgefield with my kids, and I think it is a particularly interesting choice for families who don’t want their vacation to revolve around a traditional resort pool.

There are family rooms, family-friendly dining, the movie theater, games, gardens, exploring, and the soaking pool. The property also makes it easy to come and go if you want to spend part of your trip exploring Portland, the Columbia River Gorge or Mount Hood.

The one thing I would emphasize to parents is that Edgefield isn’t a polished, modern resort designed specifically for children. That is actually part of its appeal, but it means families who enjoy exploring, wandering and discovering things together are likely to get more out of it than families looking for a traditional kids’ resort.

And because the rooms don’t have TVs, I would make sure your children are on board with that concept before you book. You don’t want to discover at check-in that your teenager considers this a human-rights violation. My kids love the Edgefield but they grew up going there. My boys like the par 3 golf course quite a bit.

McMenamins Edgefield for a Girls’ Getaway

This is where I think Edgefield is especially hard to beat.

I have stayed here with girlfriends, and it works beautifully because everyone can choose their own version of relaxation. One person can book a spa treatment, someone else can grab a drink, another can wander through the gardens, and everyone can eventually meet up for dinner and a soak.

Ruby’s Spa is located on the property, and the soaking pool is right there, too. The spa offers services including massages and facials, although appointments should be booked ahead.

Then you have the restaurants, bars, music, games, and all the weird little corners of Edgefield to explore. You get the feeling that you have actually gone somewhere, even though you are only about 20 to 25 minutes from downtown Portland.

Is McMenamins Edgefield Worth Staying At?

For me, the answer is an emphatic yes.

But I also think it is important to be honest about who will love Edgefield and who may not. If you want a sleek modern hotel with air conditioning, a television in your room, standardized rooms and a predictable experience, this probably isn’t your place.

If you love historic properties, quirky details, gardens, good food and drinks, live music, soaking pools, art, and having enough things to do that you don’t have to leave the property, McMenamins Edgefield is something special.

For families, it can be a fun Oregon getaway that doesn’t require constant driving. For couples, it makes an easy Portland-area escape. And for girlfriends, it is almost unfairly well suited to a weekend of eating, drinking, soaking and catching up.

When Is the Best Time to Visit McMenamins Edgefield?

There isn’t really a bad time to visit Edgefield because different seasons bring different reasons to go.

Summer is particularly lively with outdoor events and concerts, while the gardens are a major attraction during the warmer months. The property also hosts events throughout the year, so I would check the calendar before booking if there is a particular concert, tour, or seasonal event you want to attend.

I also think Edgefield is a great option when Oregon weather is doing what Oregon weather does. You can wander outside when it is nice, then duck into a restaurant, bar, movie theater, spa or other indoor space when the weather turns.

And if your primary goal is the soaking pool, there is something particularly satisfying about sitting in 102-degree water while Oregon does its thing around you.

My Take on McMenamins Edgefield

I realize I am probably not the most objective person to ask about Edgefield.

I have been going there since 2005, and I have watched it become more and more of a destination over the years. But honestly, that is part of why I still love it. It was one of my favorite places before it became a place people were talking about, and it remains one of my favorite places now.

I’ve stayed there with girlfriends. I’ve stayed there with my kids. I’ve soaked in that pool more times than I can count. And I still find myself wanting to go back. For me, Edgefield isn’t just a hotel in Troutdale. It is one of those Oregon places where the destination itself is the vacation.

And if you’re planning an Oregon trip that includes Portland, the Columbia River Gorge, Mt. Hood or the Oregon Coast, I would seriously consider adding a night or two at Edgefield. You may arrive intending to explore Oregon and end up spending half the trip wandering around the property instead.

Honestly, I wouldn’t blame you.